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As a retired captain for Delta Airlines, my father-in-law, George Chaudoin, has seen a lot of the world in his comings and goings. And my mother-in-law, Ann, is no slouch in the travel department either, first working as a "stewardess" with Eastern Airlines back in the '50s and then traveling with George on a pass--a benefit of his airline employment. Together, they've cruised extensively through Europe--both sea and river--covering the
Baltic, the North Atlantic, and the Mediterranean.
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Though Ann and George were pretty burned out on European travel after six or seven cruises
and various land-based trips over the past two decades, their interests were piqued by the
relatively new "Black Sea Serenade" itinerary offered by Oceania CruisesTHC, which visits
mostly untouristed ports in Turkey, Russia, Ukraine, Romania, and Bulgaria. "This was a
part of the world we hadn't seen yet--specifically Asia Minor," says Ann. "We found the
history fascinating, and the countryside was just beautiful, mostly rolling hills,
vineyards, and farmland. We were especially impressed by the fact that the port cities were
quite modern and clean, but as we traveled out into the hinterland, it was very rural and
almost third-world feeling. We were warned, for instance, not to eat or drink anything
while we were out and about, and to avoid having to use the bathrooms."
Their Black Sea cruise embarked from Athens and made one stop in Santorini before heading
to Kusadasi, Turkey, which is officially in Asia Minor--also known as Anatolia. Just
outside the city is the biblical town of Ephesus, and the possible remains of the home
where the Virgin Mary once lived. "Our guide was wonderful," says Ann. "She explained that
St. John the Apostle apparently traveled with the Blessed Virgin Mary for three years, all
the way across the mountains of Turkey, to bring her here to live. They were afraid the
Romans would try to kill her. And this is where she eventually died."
Passage to the Black Sea
As they cruised northward on the Nautica, sailing through the Bosphorus Straits near
Istanbul, they passed under one of the world's longest suspension bridges, and the first to
connect Europe with Asia Minor. Beyond lay the intriguing ports of the Black Sea, beginning
with Yalta, Ukraine. "This is a very religious region, and the Eastern Orthodox churches we
saw were very ornate and beautiful, with their onion domes and gold adornments," says Ann.
"We watched people entering the churches, and they were quite physical in their kneeling
and bowing before statues, much more so than we are here in the U.S."
A highlight of my in-laws' time in Yalta--besides visiting the palace where Churchill,
Roosevelt, and Stalin signed the Yalta Declaration in 1945--was seeing the Swallow's Nest,
a tiny castle built in 1911 by a German oil baron, and perched on a steep cliff more than a
hundred feet above the sea. At a later stop in Sevastopol, also in Ukraine, they had the
opportunity for a mini history lesson on the Crimean War, as passengers visited a
Sevastopol battlefield and viewed the amazing 377-foot circular canvas that depicts some of
the most famous battles from that war.
In Romania, Ann and George walked among the rubble of Roman ruins--including remnants of
Roman baths and a temple to Aphrodite--in the ancient citadel of Histra, Romania's oldest
and largest archaeological site. And just outside Varna, Bulgaria, they were totally
intrigued by the ruins of a famous rock monastery dating back to the 13th century, where
the cells of the monks--who sought refuge here during the Ottoman occupation--as well as
the chapel, a kitchen, various workshops, and even tombs for the dead were carved into the
soft sandstone and connected by a labyrinth of passageways.
A Purchase, and a Gift
Though they were told that tourism "hasn't quite blossomed here yet" and that shopping
might not be terrific, Ann and George found olive oil and olive oil soap to buy in a little
shop in Bulgaria. "The shop owner was a very nice older man," says Ann, "and as we were
about to leave, he beckoned George over and gave him a huge, delicious bunch of grapes. As
is the custom in many parts of the world, we had bought something from him, and he wanted
to give us a little something in return."
Ann and George both agree they would love to see more of this part of the world. "I would
do that cruise again in a heartbeat, just so I could absorb more," says Ann. "Some of the
places we saw and civilizations we learned about were around before Europe was even on the
map, so to speak. It boggled the mind, and I hated being rushed through it as you so often
are, unfortunately, on these tours. Because it was a somewhat new itinerary, I think
everyone was putting their best foot forward. The drivers were safe, and all the guides
were excellent--they did their countries proud. We had a wonderful time!"
Aboard the Nautica
According to my in-laws, the "Black Sea Serenade" cruise aboard the Nautica was five-star
all the way. "The food was fabulous, and of course, they always give you way too much,"
says Ann. "The staff was very friendly and informative, and all the tours we went on were
aboard brand-new buses, so everything felt shiny-new and clean. Also, they were very aware
of cleanliness and not spreading germs. Every time you returned to the ship, you wiped your
feet on a special mat which contained a disinfectant."
While they enjoyed most of their excursions, Ann and George felt one or two could use some
improvement--or even be eliminated from the itinerary. "The Botanical Gardens we visited in
Sochi (Russia) were not our favorite," notes Ann. "They were very old gardens--I think they
were laid out in the 19th century--and seemed uninspired. Plus the weather was bad that day,
which didn't help. Most people were very disappointed with that tour."
However, they loved their excursion into the Romanian coastal countryside, where they
visited the ancient citadel of Histra. "We passed by lovely farms, orchards, and
vineyards," says Ann, "and the people passing by on the roads waved to us and were so
friendly. I really liked the area."
A final highlight of their trip was visiting the Blue Mosque, Istanbul's iconic symbol of
its Islamic faith that dominates the city?s skyline. Dating back to the early 1600s, the
massive mosque has six white minarets topped with blue tiles, rather than the usual two or
four. "It?s all blue-porcelain tile inside, and downstairs are the beautiful pools where
the men did their ablutions before worshipping," says Ann. "Of course, the women weren't
allowed in the same area as the men, so they had to stay upstairs and listen through a
screen."
Ann and George both agree they would love to see more of this part of the world. "I would
do that cruise again in a heartbeat, just so I could absorb more," says Ann. "Some of the
places we saw and civilizations we learned about were around before Europe was even on the
map, so to speak. It boggled the mind, and I hated being rushed through it as you so often
are, unfortunately, on these tours. Because it was a somewhat new itinerary, I think
everyone was putting their best foot forward. The drivers were safe, and all the guides
were excellent--they did their countries proud. We had a wonderful time!"
HL
November 2009