It's not necessarily that visit to the Eiffel Tower or a camel ride among the Pyramids that makes for a successful and memorable trip, although these
certainly have their place. Instead, it's often someone's suggestion that we stop for lunch at their favorite bistro tucked away on a Parisian side street,
or visit their cousin Mohammed's souk for some strong tea and a bit of spirited haggling.
And so, we decided to get some of these inside travel tips and secrets directly
from the horse's mouth, so to speak, by going to the concierges and other
on-site staff at our partner hotels and resorts in The Hideaways Collection®.
Little did we realize what an overwhelming response and what great tips we
would get! We heard from so many crackerjack concierges who shared their
favorite restaurants, best shopping spots, and little-known beaches that we
could have filled a book!
Because of that response, this is just our first installment of "Cool Concierge
Tips," with several more to come in successive issues of Hideaways Life.
Here, we're taking you to Europe—excluding Italy, which proved worthy of
its own segment—for an inside look at what places the locals love to
frequent and hang out in, so you'll enjoy a more authentic,
off-the-beaten-track visit. Of course, we've been to most of these destinations
ourselves and can offer our own insight, so be sure to give us a call (800-843-4433)
when you're ready to book.
NORTHERN EUROPE
Starting in Portugal's capital city, we received some great dining tips from
the folks at
Corinthia Hotel LisbonTHC.
For restaurants, they suggest Cantinho Lusitano (cantinho meaning "small, cozy
space"), where the traditional Portuguese food is homemade, and where you'll
find a full list of pesticos, similar to Spanish tapas. Favorite
dishes there include scrambled eggs with farinheira (Portuguese
sausage) and the grilled chouriço sausage with muscatel wine sauce.
Another authentic restaurant option is Bota Alta, described by staff as "a
must-go in Lisbon, for Lisbon people and foreigners as well! Inside, the design
depicts a traditional (back in the '50s) Portuguese house from the countryside.
Try the pork with clams stew."
For trendier dining, they suggest Lisboa a Noite, located in one of the
traditional quarters of Lisbon, for a contemporary and intimate atmosphere.
Favorite dish? Octopus in the oven, served with baked potatoes à murro
(punched, or literally "beat up"), a traditional way of preparing when topped
with garlic and olive oil.
Corinthia Hotel Lisbon
For a local excursion, the staff says you should not miss a ride on Tram 28,
the electric trolley-car line that covers the oldest and hilliest part of the
city. Along the route, you'll stop at a number of nice "belvederes," or scenic
viewpoints, such as Portas do Sol and Adamastor (Santa Catalina). You'll also
get into the heart of the traditional quarters of Lisbon, including Alfama,
Bica, and Bairro Alto. "Spend some time discovering these quarters on foot:
Alfama and its mazes and Moorish environment; Bica, with its traditional
Portuguese daily life; Chiado and Bairro Alto for their culture and nightlife,
such as trendy restaurants, theaters, and galleries."
When shopping, they suggest A Vida Portuguesa in the downtown area for local
goods of all kinds, Fàbrica de Sant'anna for traditional tiles and pottery, and
Garrafeira Nacional for a wide selection of Portuguese wines. If it's a beach
you're craving, the place to enjoy is nearby Arràbida, "an area of green rocky
mountain ranges, charming blue sea, and hidden beaches attended mostly by
locals."
The concierge at
Reid's PalaceTHC,
located on the Portuguese island of Madeira, had a ton of great
recommendations. For restaurants, she suggests Doca Do Cavacas for very fresh
fish and shellfish, a good local spot with an open-air terrace built on top of
the seaside rocks and overlooking some natural rock pools. The hotel's own
Villa Cipriani is her choice for true Italian recipes, great service, and an
amazing view over a rocky bay and the town of Funchal in the distance.
For shopping, there's Bordal, "an embroidery factory that keeps the old ways of
making our famous Madeira embroidery, all by hand. You can see where the
patterns are designed and printed on the linen, through the finishing works."
There's also Fabrico Santo Antonio, a fascinating old factory that uses
traditional methods for creating cookies, jams, and marmalades, "where one can
breathe in and taste our grannies' secret recipes."
If you want to take advantage of Madeira's famous summer dolphin-watching tours
and deep-sea fishing, you'll have to book well in advance since these trips
sell out quickly. Otherwise, she suggests making a short excursion to Faja dos
Padres, a secluded area by the sea with great swimming (the beach is pebbly, so
plastic shoes are advisable) as well as a small restaurant, and all in a
setting of sub-tropical plants like papaya, mango, banana, and avocado. Another
good trip is to Paul da Serra on the island's west side, "a bit of Scotland in
Madeira—a fantastic plateau 1,400 meters above sea level with lots of
heather and gorse, as well as century-old tree heathers."
More insight from Reid's Palace: Enjoy a walk through
Queimadas Ecological Park in the Madeira village of Santana, where you'll be
immersed in peace and quiet as you explore 7.5 miles of beautiful landscapes,
including the local Laurisilva (laurel-type) primary forest. A superb nature
walk! If your thing is flowers, visit the stunning São Jorge Rose Garden, with
its hundreds of varieties of rose bushes in scented bloom (closed January
through April).
Other concierge ideas include visiting Madeira's lovely coastal villages, like
Paul do Mar and Jardim do Mar, where you can stop to have a mojito and watch
the sunset; taking a boat trip with
Bonita da Madeira to Baia d'Abra, "a marvelous wild bay where
you can swim, dive, and relax after enjoying a delicious hot meal on board";
taking the cable car near Santana for a breathtaking five-minute trip down to
Faja da Rocha do Navio, where you'll find vineyards, banana plantations, and
one of Madeira's protected natural preserves; and enjoying a boat trip to one
of the nature preserves that protect the rarest species of Mediterranean monk
seal, Monachus monachus.
The beauty of Austria makes for a rich outdoor experience when staying at
Grandhotel
LienzTHC,
in the shadow of the Dolomites near the Italian border. Elisabeth Simonitsch,
wife of owner Heinz Simonitsch, suggests that guests visit nearby Galitzenklamm
Gorge, an impressive canyon tucked into the Dolomites. Trails crisscross along
the rock faces and bring you up close to waterfalls and pools like the "stone
ball mill," where rough stones are formed into round balls by the force of the
water—a centuries-old technique for forming cannonballs! The gorge also
has a "water educational route" where kids (and adults) can learn about the
animals and vegetation that thrive in this challenging environment. For
giggles, you also could try a llama trek with professional guide Karl-Peter
Schneeberger and his team of friendly llamas, hiking through the
mountain-hemmed Nationalpark Hohe Tauern of East Tyrol. If you visit in the
winter, there's guided "moonshine snowshoe hiking or torch hiking."
If all that exercise works up an appetite, Elisabeth suggests a stop at
Dolomiten Hutte, a must-see alpine chalet perched on a rocky precipice, where
you'll be served authentic Austrian specialties in a heady mountain setting.
For a more down-to-earth dinner, she and Heinz love Restaurant Lucullus at the
Hotel Moarhof, where her favorite dish is the filet of saddle of
venison with mushroom tartar, broccoli cream, and apricot pofesen,
followed by hibiscus mousse lemon compote for dessert. Reservations are a must,
she says.
Nothing says "Tyrolean" quite like sheep, and Elisabeth recommends a visit to
"a very special place" called Villgrater
Natur, where time-honored methods are used for creating
handcrafted products from sheep's milk and wool, including pillows,
house-slippers, yarns, and soaps.
Elisabeth also gave us several more intriguing suggestions for day
trips: Travel by bus or bike to Dölsach and the ancient Roman
ruins of Agentum, where you'll see ruins of the city wall, and atrium house,
and a thermal bath. Or take a scenic drive from Point Lienz to the Italian
Dolomite Mountains, just over the Austrian border, with possibly an overnight
stay in the picturesque Northern Italian town of Cortina. Total driving
distance is approximately 300 kilometers.
Le Chateau de Bagnols
Château de BagnolsTHC,
a 13th-century castle hotel in the Beaujolais wine region of France, has enough
history and architectural treasures of its own to keep you busy for days.
However, if you want to wander off and investigate the area, the Château's
general manager suggests visiting the medieval village of Oingt, which is only
four miles away and has a beautifully preserved church and tower. With its
stone façades and narrow winding streets, Oingt is listed as one of the most
beautiful villages in France.
Other excursions take advantage of the area's clean country air and its
reputation as one of France's finest wine regions. You can try hot-air
ballooning, take a horse-drawn carriage ride through the countryside, or spend
the day hopping from one local vineyard to another. In the town of Bagnols,
there's a wood-turner's shop worth a visit, where you can watch the creation of
ornamental pieces and then buy a vase, fruit bowl, or lamp base to take home.
Finish up your day with a delicious meal at nearby Le Vieux Moulin (The Old
Mill), a traditional French restaurant serving excellent local cuisine. He
suggests trying the frog legs en persillade (with garlic and parsley) and the
homemade foie gras. For an unforgettable dining experience, he suggests Paul
Bocuse in Lyon, a world-renowned, 3-Michelin-star restaurant serving classic
haute cuisine. His favorite dishes include the traditional Lyon quenelles of
pike with crayfish, served with Nantua sauce (a classic French seafood sauce)
and the sea bass stuffed in a puff-pastry shell, served with Charon sauce (a
variation on classic Bernaise). But if you don't want to leave the Château, you
can feast on French fare in the main dining room, which has the largest Gothic
fireplace in all of France.
Rounding out northern Europe—at least for this installment—is
London's
The AthenaeumTHC,
located in the fashionable Mayfair district, where Head Concierge David
Muylders has two favorite restaurants to recommend. The first is Benares (on
Berkeley Street) for Indian cuisine with a British twist, headed up by
2-Michelin-star Chef Atul Kochhar. "I recommend trying the grazing menu, where
they compare wines to the five-course tasting," says David. "Also, a concierge
tip is to try the Chilli Cocktail in the bar first, to get you spiced up and in
the mood."
His second suggestion is Guinea Grill (on Bruton Place), a Mayfair institution
known for its Prime Scotch Beef and award-winning pies. "Their steak-and-kidney
pie is a must—but beware, it is rather filling."
For excursions, David recommends visiting Shepherd Market, just a few minutes'
walk from The Athenaeum and a must-see, he says, for its great restaurants,
obscure shops, and four fun pubs. You might even spot a few celebs entering its
popular nightspots; recent sightings include Kate Moss and Mick Jagger.
Speaking of celebrities, he also recommends visiting Raj Mirpuri on New Bond
Street, adding, "In my opinion they are one of the best tailors in London.
Their level of service and pricing are second to none. Let our concierge team
book your appointment to be seen by the tailor to the celebrities."
If you want to be with the "in" crowd for the popular Buckingham Palace Summer
Opening—traditionally when the Queen visits Scotland in August and
September, and the Palace's 19 staterooms are open to visitors—David says
you will want to book tickets before arriving in London, or book one of The
Athenaeum's Royal Packages through Hideaways to secure tickets and not
be disappointed.
SOUTHERN EUROPE
In Europe's more temperate climes, we travel to Spain's
Hotel Ritz MadridTHC,
where Concierge Borja Martin Gurida offers many great ideas for an evening out.
Start with dining at Viridiana, for a cozy and warm restaurant located near the
hotel. A favorite dish of guests is quail egg with boletus cream and truffle.
Another dining suggestion is Los Galayos, where he says they prepare a very
special version of a classic regional dish, the famous suckling pig. If you
want to sample a little of this, a little of that, follow the "Madrid Tapas
Trail" through the historical part of the city, for mouth-watering tapas served
with regional Spanish wines.
Hotel Ritz Madrid
For shopping, check out the leather sandals and traditional espadrilles offered
at the family-owned shop, Alpargateria Casa Herranz, where shoes have been sold
for more than 150 years. For entertainment, Borja warns that if you hope to
attend a football match, popular theater event, or special museum exhibition at
the Prado or Reina Sofia, it's best to book tickets in advance of your arrival.
As for bullfights, he says they are held every Sunday for most of the year, and
every day in May during the popular San Isidro Fair.
For a fun and original way to see Madrid, Borja suggests a
Segway tour—yes, that uniquely American invention has
made it across the pond. If you prefer to explore the city on foot, he says
it's best to start with a walk through Retiro Park, "the green heart of our
city," which is a two-minute stroll from the hotel. Once a recreation area for
the Spanish Royal Family, the park has a pond, fountains (one called the
Fountain of the Artichoke!), and the world's only monument to the devil, set
within the Fountain of the Fallen Angel.
Borja's two favorite excursions outside the city: Located
50 kilometers north of Madrid, the massive Royal Monastery of San Lorenzo is
considered by some to be the 8th wonder of the world. Borja says, "It was
conceived by the very religious King Felipe II as a monastery, palace, and
royal burial place. The king looked at this masterpiece of harmony and
classical solemnity as his crowning achievement." The monastery crypt is where
the majority of Spanish kings are buried, and it is one of the most-visited
monuments in Spain. But the village of San Lorenzo itself is a small, pleasant
country town surrounded by hills—a well-known summer retreat for those
who want to escape Madrid's hot weather.
About 45 kilometers southeast of Madrid is Chinchón, which is more a large
village than a town, and which has a magnificent "Plaza Mayor," one of the best
preserved in the whole region of Madrid. "Thanks to its ancient houses and
wooden balconies, it's also one of the most attractive villages in Spain," says
Borja. "During local August festivals, this square becomes a bull ring, just as
it has ever since it was built."
We wrap our tour of Europe with the Greek Island of Santorini, and the sister
resorts of MystiqueTHC
and VedemaTHC.
Marili Batsolaki of Vedema Resort happily shared her favorite secret beach on
the island, Vlychada, and says, "I love this one because it is the least
touristed. If you are looking to relax and swim in crystal water, this is the
place to be." She also advises that if you're on a tight schedule and want to
enjoy a sailing cruise, you should be sure to pre-book so you don't miss out.
Marili's favorite places to dine include the elegant Apiron Restaurant, located
in the bustling town of Fira. "The location is simply unique," she says,
"tucked among the small alleyways, with a magnificent view of the caldera and
the Aegean Sea. Its menu is as Greek as it can be. My favorite dish is rooster
with red wine sauce and homemade pasta." She also recommends Metaxy Mas in Exo
Gonia, where the service is excellent and the menu is based on classic Greek
cuisine with a focus on Santorinian and Cretan dishes. Her favorite is the veal
fillet with Vinsanto wine sauce, mushrooms, and basmati rice.
Wines are a huge part of the Vedema experience, given its history as a
vineyard, and Marili suggests a tour of Santorini's thriving vineyards for an
afternoon of wine tastings. If you have time, she also recommends walking
around the traditional villages of Pyrgos, Megalohori, and Emporio. For
shopping, Fira town has many places for local handicrafts like leather goods
and folk art. "But my favorite, less-touristed place for shopping is Oia," says
Marili, "where you'll find the Stavros Galanopoulas Gallery, which sells
incredible drawn pictures of Santorini landscapes." Believe Marili, you'll want
to carry home a remembrance of this Greek Isle.
Whew! If this impressive list of Cool Concierge Tips doesn't whet your
appetite for some stimulating European travel, we don't know what will! When
you're ready to explore Europe on the inside track, call your Hideaways Travel
Specialist (800-843-4433) to get you there in style, with
member-only perks and privileges.